Wednesday, October 9, 2019

LUCCA and PORTOVENERE


It was 25 years ago when we first visited Lucca. The bus from
Barga would make its way down along the Secchio River to Lucca. It was
challenging back then just to figure out the bus schedules never mind the Lira
to pay for the tickets. Then of course, where to buy bus tickets.
Never easy.



Lucca is a beautiful small Tuscan city north west of Florence and
not terribly far from the coast. James and I were with our friends
Paul and Betty on this road trip first to Lucca and then to
Portovenere.


After checking in to our hotel, we all agreed that a light lunch was needed. A
small osteria with some shade found under an umbrella, a lively piazza, water, wine, and
a few plates of local cured meats, cheeses and salads...we
were good to go.


Church of San Frediano
with the early Christian Roman style mosaic




Church of San Michele is the center piece of Piazza San Michele.
Inside there is a painting, The Four Saints, by Filippino Lippi.




Guinigi Tower topped with Oak trees, and no we did
not climb to the top!



Cathedral of San Martino




One of the nicer things about Lucca is that much of the art
is on the exteriors of the buildings.


The interior of San Martino is impressive. There are two works of art
that must be seen, the beautiful tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, by Jacopo della Quercia,
with her dog resting at her feet. There is also a painting by Ghirlandaio with a
small lunette  painted by Filippino Lippi,



WINDOW SHOPPING


There are Pinocchios everywhere in Lucca, in shops, on signs, on
bookcovers and in window displays. I was attracted to this one..
simple and right to the point.




Pistacchio cakes, Panforte, cookies..........it's not difficult to find sweets
in this town including Gelato!



Window shopping lead to some purchases. Betty spotted this
shop and left with a shopping bag that contained a beautiful
throw. I couldn't resist and I bought one as well. Thanks Betty,
you have a good eye!



Waiting...waiting....and more waiting, while we shop.



After eating, going into churches, looking at art and shopping
the time came for an apertivo. It was only short walk  from the hotel to the
 Piazza dell' Anfiteatro, built on the site of
an ancient Roman amphitheatre.



Trattoria Gigi

The first night dinner was at Trattoria Gigi. Paul found a wine he had
heard about and there it was, sitting right on our table in this old style il
Fiaschetto bottle!

For dinner the second night we took a recommendation from
a friend. We were fortunate to get a reservation at
Osteria da Pasquelino where the service was great and the food
and wine superb! No better way to end our visit to Lucca then on that note.




PORTOVENERE


Paul and Betty had visited this town on the Mediterranean years
ago, for James and I it was all new.
Although it was mid September the temperatures were still
Summer like, which meant the small beach areas were dotted with people tanning, swimming
and parading in their bikinis and Speedo's




I did not get any sand on these feet, nor did any
of us, but we strolled the length of the town enjoying
the sea breezes.



The water was as beautiful a blue as one images of the Mediterranean Sea.
 These tall  craggy cliffs  allure divers who gracefully step into the air and
descend headlong into the blue waters below.





The day ends with Aperivi, then a short walk to
a very good seafood restaurant, Trattoria La Chiglia.
Tomorrow, back to Umbria and a small town called Panicale.





Where to Stay:

Palazzo Busdraghi, Residenza d'Epoca
Via Fillungo,170
Lucca, Italy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Where to Eat:

Osteria da Pasqualino
Via de Moro, 8
Lucca
( closed Tues./dinner only)

Gigi Trattoria
Piazza del Carmine, 7
Lucca

 Trattoria La Chiglia
Via dell'Olivo
Portovenere
( closed Wed.)



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