SNOW MOON .....over New England and Umbria

The February Full Snow Moon is seen here rising over New Castle, New Hampshire. The late afternoon sun lights up the coastline.....the snowless coastline. This winter in New England has been unique for the lack of snow and higher than average temperatures. Normally, at this time of year we are more likely to have at least knee deep snow cover and bitter cold temperatures. Last winter the snow was unyielding. Snow piles so high it was difficult to see over them making getting around by foot or by car impossible at times.

This winter, however, James and I find ourselves taking walks nearly every day.....on our dry dirt road, in the city on pavement or on open seaside paths. Can you believe that we were sitting outside on a bench just yesterday!

February Surprise!

Sotta la Luna

We received an email with photos the other day from Italy. Surprise! February 1st, with the Snow Moon rising, it had snowed in Panicale.

Panicale is the lovely Medieval hill town where we stay on visits to Umbria.

We have seen pictures of snow taken there in the past.

The pictures hang in the local forno ( bakery), and I think there is one at Bar Gallo, also known as Aldo's. The pictures are on view to show Panicale in snow because it is a rare thing. We understand this storm covered with region, both Umbria and Tuscany with about a foot of snow! It even snowed in Rome.

Panicale under snow

The village, which overlooks the Umbrian plane, looks beautiful and magical in the snow.

I cannot help but wonder about the glorious fig and olives trees under this heavy snow. This is a place where Palm trees live and rosemary grows tall into hedges or cascades over walls. So, February's Snow Moon has found Panicale in a unique and rare winter as well. New England for the most part is without snow on the ground and Umbria is blanketed in snow.

The Universal Snowman

Everyone loves a snowman. This photo brought a smile to my face.

The Piazza Umberto Primo is the center of town and hub of activity in Panicale. In the morning there is cappuccino at Aldo's where nicely dressed women pass by heading to the markets to do their daily food shopping. Afternoons, the piazza fills with school children, often with a soccer ball. It is a lively place for a small village with restaurants, shops and cafes. We hear that during wine festival this fountain is filled with wine. James and I have never been in town during wine festival so cannot verify this. But, at Easter there is a festival race, the object is to roll wheels of Pecorino cheese from the top of the town.... down...down to the bottom finish line.

Here, this snowy February morning, the fountain in the middle of the piazza is a gathering place to build a snowman!

Panicale is built in an elliptical design on a hill that is south of Lake Trasimeno. From the piazza all roads lead around through medieval archways and narrow passages, some go up and up to the top of the town where the Bell Tower or Campanile is located. Many of these ancient roads are impossibly narrow and is rather startling to see a car drive through. The bells sound on the hour and again with a different and distinctive and ancient sounding ring at the half. The village of Panicale is beautiful and it's people are delightful.

Back to the snow..... Pictured is one of the gates, Porta Perugino, that passes through the ancient walls of the town where you enter or depart. This car will likely stay put for a while.

An art note.Porto Perugino is named for the artist Pietro Perugino. Perugino, an Umbrian, painted a fresco The Martyrdom of St. Sebastian ( 1505), here in the Church of San Sebastiano.

We will be visiting Panicale again this spring and we will stop in as always to look at the Perugino. By then the poppies, broom and even roses will be in bloom.

Vediamo in primavera!

But for now.....

New Castle, New Hampshire

Here in New Hampshire we took a walk through the charming village of New Castle spending time to draw at the town common. Yesterday, as we walked along Seapoint Beach in Kittery, Maine, we had to remind ourselves that this is February. Our daughter lives the area so we are frequent visitors here. There are times in winter when James and I find that we need to look at the ocean. It is about seeing that horizon line against the blue sky paired with the sea air that renews us.

This winter has not been one of white and gray as most winters are. The sun on our open field is golden and daily walks have reduced our "cabin fever".

The nights have been cold and clear creating a perfect venue for watching the

Snow Moon rise into the February sky.

For another look at the Snow Moon click on: Aponovich 52

Grazie, Katia!

Thanks to Katia Mughetti for use of the photos of Panicale.

December in the Gardens of Strawbery Banke, Portsmouth, NH

This is the Sherburne Garden at Strawbery Banke Museum. It is the oldest garden here and dates to 1695. It remains on it's original site framed by a Colonial house, a board fence and Roxbury Russett heritage apple trees. These raised beds supplied not only food but medicinal herbs for the family.

"Let your food be your medicine, and your medicine your food."

A quote by Hippocrates from text at the museum.

Continuing our garden walk......

Up the path, inside a fenced yard of this 18th Century house is this wonderful pergola. This is my favorite garden structure here at Strawbery Bank. If I could duplicate one for our garden this would be it.

Portsmouth was as important trade port in the 18th Century, so new plants, from China for example, were introduced into gardens .

James and I were both interested that Strawbery Banke Museum has an Heirloom Seed project. It made sense since their mission here is to preserve not only buildings that span four centuries but also the gardens. We are certainly interested in learning more about this and the program Historic Foodways.

Follow a path towards a multi-tiered fountain, through an arch formed by the cedar and find yourself in the formal Victorian garden, circa 1862. I love walking under the cedar arch, it sets the stage for a romantic Victorian garden.

Paths lead to this garden building with decorative painted iron chairs. Here in the Victorian garden things taken on a more formal appearance, and the use of annual bedding plants for color and pattern.

A rose post adorns the corner of the Victorian garden. We first saw a rose post in the gardens here several years ago, when we were fortunate to have a private tour of the grounds and gardens. Our guide was John Forti, The Curator of Historic Gardens & Landscape at the Strawbery Banke Museum. It was a memorable tour that we often recall. Back then there was a small garden shop on the grounds where we bought a number of herbs including sweet cicely and bronze fennel that remain in our garden.

Here we are in the restored 20th Century Colonial Revival garden. There is so much going on here with plants and structures. Come along as we wander through .....

In this Colonial Revival garden the use of textural paths of stone and brick lead to an interesting pergola that connects the garden to the house. I have never seen a garden structure quite like this. I can imagine dining under the shade of the pergolas canopy in the warm months. It is impressive.

This garden will be glorious in the spring and summer, but this time of year the structure is the star.

The urn sits proudly on top or the trellis like structure. This garden has a good sense of scale.

The Herb Garden

This garden has been planted as a teaching garden. The bench adds an interesting focal point against the dark greenery of boxwood. The pea stone gravel paths are like what we have in our own gardens, I love the feel under foot and the sound of footsteps walking through the garden.

One of the reasons we are visiting the gardens here today is that we are considering changes to our garden. Our plan is to revise and edit our rose garden. Certain rose will remain others moved. Moving roses is a task and not always successful, but we must be courageous and move ahead! In their place herbs will be planted. So we came here today to see and fill our heads with the herb gardens.

A detail of the Herb Garden. It looks very pleased to share the names of all the plants.

Here we are at the Victory Garden reading the helpful text. Many American households relied on their backyard Victory Gardens to help provide food for their tables due to food rationing during World War II. We learned of a tomato that was new and planted in many of these backyard gardens called "Mortgage Lifter" a name appropriate to those difficult times. We have

since planted a couple Mortgage Lifters in our garden each summer.

The Victory Garden

The stakes remain where summer tomatoes grew. Next summer,with the cooperation of nature and human hands tilling, renewing and enriching the soil,they will once again be heavy with ripe tomatoes. Canning fruits and vegetables became more common in the American kitchen in efforts to let the garden feed the family.

In another garden, summer finds cabbages, garlic and foods that represent the cultures of the immigrants that came to America and to this area of the seacoast.

The shadows grow longer as the afternoon passes. On our way out of Strawbery Banke we stop for a few moments, we each make note of this garden entrance. How inviting it must be on a warm summer day to rest on the benches beneath a cover of shady green. This is the entrance to the Heritage Orchard, where heirloom apples are being grown.

I think we will return next summer to see what this all looks like then, and return home to our garden with a few ideas.

May I suggest taking along a sketchbook or notebook on your visit.

For information on the historic gardens click on: Strawbery Bank Gardens

The museum offers programs on traditional recipes cooking including hearth cooking, as well as use and preservation of heirloom produce. For information on these interesting demonstrations and programs, click on:

Historic Foodways

A DECEMBER WALK THROUGH HISTORIC STRAWBERY BANKE, Portsmouth, New Hampshire

The Strawbery Banke website opens with,

"Strawbery Banke is about connecting with the past."

This is a living museum. It is our opportunity to have a glimpse of life in this seacoast village from the late 17th century to the mid-2oth Century.

Dirt roads and paths lead past ordinary houses , fancy homes, a store, sheds, artisan shops and gardens. The oldest of the 42 buildings dates from the Colonial times circa 1695. The most recent building here takes us up to World War II, with a Victory Garden behind it.

With Four Centuries collected here, we find many of the buildings have been preserved and several are in the process of restoration. These buildings are here thanks to citizens that understood the importance of historic preservation.

The restoration continues. There is a program called

The Heritage House Program,

it's goal is to restore and preserve ten additional properties on the site.

We visit on a warm and clear December afternoon. The sun is low in the sky creating long shadows and of course there will be an early sunset. But the day is beautiful and it is quiet here. We are happily lost in time.

Along this street some of the buildings have been restored others stand waiting their turn to be brought back to what they once were.

A window draws attention to itself against the plain wooden boards. One of the oldest buildings on the grounds, this house has spectacular form and the diamond window panes are a lovely detail.

On the other hand, down another street we climb into the time machine and travel ahead a few hundred years. A feeling of nostalgia seeps in when approaching this building, a restored general store.....from an era not all that long ago.

A restored home is seen in the distance with a dory here in the foreground, put up for winter. Portsmouth has been an important seaport since the 1600's, so boats, both large and small have played an important role here. Boat building, trade and fishing are central to this seacoast community.

This area where Strawbery Banke was once an immigrant community known as Puddle Dock.

This fence is just a glimpse of some of the details and structure of the gardens that can be seen on a visit here. But more on that soon. Here we look through the fence to the surrounding neighborhood that is Strawbery Banke.

There are some interesting gardens to explore at Strawbery Banke. Behind this fence is one of those gardens that we will enter in an upcoming story!

As we exit the grounds we follow along the edge created by this unique white washed fence. This December evening is the annual Holiday Candlelight Stroll, a very festive occasion celebrating the season and this special historic place in the heart of Portsmouth.

Strawbery Banke

www.strawberybanke.org

Strawbery Banke Candlelight Stroll

Sat. & Sun. Dec. 10& 11

Sat. & Sun. Dec. 17 & 18

For further information and tickets for this season's Candlelight Stroll click on:

Candlelight Stroll

Gundalow Company

Puddledock Boatyard

www.gundalow.org

A Lobster in Winter

It's January. Here in New England we are locked into extremely cold temperatures and in what seems to be a cycle of weekly snowstorms. No better time to have lobster. I took these photos last summer at Sanders Lobster Company in Portsmouth , NH. It is therapeutic to look back and remember summer. It will return.

But, in the meantime, why not have lobster. Let's head over to Sanders, the best fresh, live lobster in Portsmouth.

At Sanders we order 2 , two pound lobsters.

Sanders ships tons of lobsters each year around the world. It is still possible to go in and order fresh caught lobsters.

They will sometimes ask if you want soft shells, hard shells, culls, etc.

If you do not know, do not hesitate to ask questions. You will find them very helpful.

They know lobster.

I noticed that at the corner of Pray & Marcy Streets, on the Sanders sign which is a lobster with an arrow, that an additional sign was tacked on announcing "Native Shrimp"

During these winter months there is often fresh native shrimp available. Very local, very fresh and always delicious.

A photo from July 2010 of a view across the water towards the historic south end of Portsmouth, NH across the water.

Currently there are piles of snow everywhere in Portsmouth, and all over the rest of New England, but then it is January!

Here is a working lobster boat at a pier with a view of Portsmouth in the distance.

At best the work of the lobstermen (women) is tough. In these January days it is hard to even imagine the conditions that these lobstermen work in.

A big" Bravo" shout out to them!

It is all about eating local!

Classic steamed lobster, with drawn clarified butter and a squeeze of lemon and maybe a biscuit.

How delicious.

How New England!

Here is a recipe that we learned when we lived up near Blue Hill, Maine.

We found the recipe for "lobster fried over cold" in a book SaltWater Seasoning, by Jonathan Chase. He got the recipe from a lobsterman.

We have adapted it over the years, but the soul of it goes back to Maine.

NASKEAG LOBSTER

(sauteed lobster)

Lobsters

Butter

Lemon

Fresh chopped herbs such as tarragon or chives

Have the lobster pound cook your lobsters, or take them home live and steam them.

(slightly undercook,if possible)

Take the lobsters home in a cooler.

This recipe is great for those who can't or are not keen on cooking lobsters.

The recipe is also good for left-over lobster as well.

Remove cooked and cooled lobster meat from shells.

Heat sweet butter and clarify. (pour off top fat layer).

For two, 1 1/2 lb. lobsters you can start with about 4-6 tablespoons of butter.

Once butter is hot add lobster meat, larger pieces first.

You are only heating the lobster through , not re-cooking it!

Add a good squeeze or two of fresh lemon to brighten the flavor.

If you like, add fresh chopped herbs. We like a little chopped tarragon. Other herbs that work well are, thyme, chervil or chives. Use just a small amount of any fresh herb, the lobster is the star.

We serve with a small amount of drawn butter, but this is optional.

Try to divide into equal portions into bowls or plates so that each serving is equal to a whole lobster. No one wants to be cheated out of a claw!

We often serve this with a cream biscuits ( recipe will be in a future blog).

Asparagus, artichoke or corn when in season go well with this dish. In winter we will have a coleslaw and small roasted potatoes with fresh herbs.

Lobster bibs are not necessary!!!!!!!!

Summer will return, but in the meantime lobster,

is just as good in winter as in the long days of summer.

Don't forget the native shrimp, it is only available fresh in the winter.

**************************

Sanders Lobster Company

54 Pray Street (at end on wharf)

Portsmouth, NH

(603) 436-3716

www.sanderslobster.com

************

Sanders Fish Market

(lobsters. fresh seafood & fish)

367 Marcy Street

Portsmouth, NH

(603) 436-4563

www.sandersfish.com

open daily

**************

Next to Sanders Fish Market is one of our favorite wine shops:

Very helpful with a nice selection. They will help you pair seafood/lobster with wine.

South Street and Vine

359 Marcy Street

Portsmouth

(603) 430-2984

www.southstreetandvine.com

******************

Destination Portsmouth,NH: WATERFRONT..... a new perspective, a look from the water, and a stop for lunch!

We board the boat at Prescott Park, a lovely park on Portsmouth's waterfront.

Our Captain for the day

All on board with sun block, hats, fishing poles, food, drink,( including lots of water), sweaters, shorts and a camera. One would think we were headed out for a 3 day cruise!

The historic Wentworth Coolidge Mansion is on Little Harbor. The 40 room mansion was the home of Benning Wentworth, New Hampshire's 1st Royal Governor. The mansion dates to the 1700's and is a fine example of a colonial home.

The first lilacs imported to New Hampshire were imported in 1750 by Royal Governor Wentworth, from England., and planted at this site. The lilac is now the state flower of NH.

There is a lilac festival held at the Wentworth Coolidge Mansion every May.

A lighthouse off New Castle

Fort Constitution, New Castle, NH

Fort Constitution sits on the edge of the Pisquatua River, the remains of one of 7 forts built to protect Portsmouth Harbor. Originally Fort William and Mary, an earthworks fort dating to 1632, it was renamed Fort Constitution in 1791.

The First Mate

Tugboat Alley

The famous tugboats of Portsmouth Harbor, a real working harbor.

Time for lunch!

There is something about salt air that seems to make everyone hungry!

Our Captain and First Mate suggest Heberts in Kittery (Badger's Island). There we can dock up and get our lunch to go or dine at their picnic tables.

We have all had terrific lobster rolls here in the past. Today we are all tempted by the fried fish sandwiches, clams and shrimp. Hey, we can't always eat fresh zucchini and poached chicken breasts! The lightly battered shrimp was fried perfectly and good size ( not those tiny shrimp that are barely detectable under heavy coating). The clams were whole and tender......YUM!

Back to the boat, we head over to Great Bay for some fishing, then slowly make our way back to the dock at Prescott Park.

Without any freshly caught fish we will have to make alternative plans for dinner!

A lobster boat is in sight! Hummmmmmm.

THE GUIDE:

Wentworth Coolidge Mansion, Little Harbor Rd, Portsmouth

Mansion guided tours: 603-436-6607

Art Gallery

Lilac Festival in May

Fort Constitution , New Castle

Open to the public

Prescott Park, Portmouth

Concerts, and performances throughout the summer.

Gardens (open to the public)

Places to Eat By Land or Sea:(dock available)

Heberts, Badgers Island, Kittery, Me.

Recommended: Lobster rolls, fried clams, fried shrimp, fish chowder, cole slaw

Chauncy Creek Lobster Pier

Kittery Point Rd, Kittery Point, ME

(207) 439- 1030

Recommended: Steamed Lobsters, Clams, Mussels and chowders

Hotel with a dock:

Wentworth By the Sea, New Castle NH

Places to dine in downtown Portsmouth if you do not catch any fish!

Jumpin' Jays Fish Cafe

150 Congress St.,Portsmouth

Tugboat Cruises:

Tugboat Alley, 47 Bow St., Portsmouth