LUCCA and PORTOVENERE

It was 25 years ago when we first visited Lucca. The bus from

Barga would make its way down along the Secchio River to Lucca. It was
challenging back then just to figure out the bus schedules never mind the Lira
to pay for the tickets. Then of course, where to buy bus tickets.
Never easy.

Lucca is a beautiful small Tuscan city north west of Florence and
not terribly far from the coast. James and I were with our friends
Paul and Betty on this road trip first to Lucca and then to
Portovenere.

After checking in to our hotel, we all agreed that a light lunch was needed. A
small osteria with some shade found under an umbrella, a lively piazza, water, wine, and
a few plates of local cured meats, cheeses and salads...we
were good to go.

Church of San Frediano
with the early Christian Roman style mosaic

Church of San Michele is the center piece of Piazza San Michele.
Inside there is a painting, The Four Saints, by Filippino Lippi.

Guinigi Tower topped with Oak trees, and no we did
not climb to the top!

Cathedral of San Martino

One of the nicer things about Lucca is that much of the art
is on the exteriors of the buildings.

The interior of San Martino is impressive. There are two works of art
that must be seen, the beautiful tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, by Jacopo della Quercia,
with her dog resting at her feet. There is also a painting by Ghirlandaio with a
small lunette  painted by Filippino Lippi,



WINDOW SHOPPING

There are Pinocchios everywhere in Lucca, in shops, on signs, on
bookcovers and in window displays. I was attracted to this one..
simple and right to the point.

Pistacchio cakes, Panforte, cookies..........it's not difficult to find sweets
in this town including Gelato!

Window shopping lead to some purchases. Betty spotted this
shop and left with a shopping bag that contained a beautiful
throw. I couldn't resist and I bought one as well. Thanks Betty,
you have a good eye!

Waiting...waiting....and more waiting, while we shop.

After eating, going into churches, looking at art and shopping
the time came for an apertivo. It was only short walk  from the hotel to the
 Piazza dell' Anfiteatro, built on the site of
an ancient Roman amphitheatre.

Trattoria Gigi

The first night dinner was at Trattoria Gigi. Paul found a wine he had
heard about and there it was, sitting right on our table in this old style il
Fiaschetto bottle!

For dinner the second night we took a recommendation from
a friend. We were fortunate to get a reservation at
Osteria da Pasquelino where the service was great and the food
and wine superb! No better way to end our visit to Lucca then on that note.




PORTOVENERE

Paul and Betty had visited this town on the Mediterranean years
ago, for James and I it was all new.
Although it was mid September the temperatures were still
Summer like, which meant the small beach areas were dotted with people tanning, swimming
and parading in their bikinis and Speedo's

I did not get any sand on these feet, nor did any
of us, but we strolled the length of the town enjoying
the sea breezes.

The water was as beautiful a blue as one images of the Mediterranean Sea.
 These tall  craggy cliffs  allure divers who gracefully step into the air and
descend headlong into the blue waters below.

The day ends with Aperivi, then a short walk to
a very good seafood restaurant, Trattoria La Chiglia.
Tomorrow, back to Umbria and a small town called Panicale.





Where to Stay:

Palazzo Busdraghi, Residenza d'Epoca
Via Fillungo,170
Lucca, Italy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Where to Eat:

Osteria da Pasqualino
Via de Moro, 8
Lucca
( closed Tues./dinner only)

Gigi Trattoria
Piazza del Carmine, 7
Lucca

 Trattoria La Chiglia
Via dell'Olivo
Portovenere
( closed Wed.)

VENICE....Small Bites

The palazzos of Venice float on the lagoon and canals, or so it seems.
A city that seems impossible. It is easy to find that you have walked miles, crossing countless bridges over charming canals, that at times are clogged with gondolas. Gondoliers duck under these bridges and somehow negotiate through the other boats.
Narrow alleys lead to open piazza's where people fill cafe's and benches while children kick soccer balls or chase the pigeons.
After all the walking it is good to duck into a bar for  a glass of wine and a bit to eat.

Our favorite place for Cichetti is in Dorsoduro, canal side.
It is called Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi.
A perfect stop for a late afternoon snack.

 If you plan on sitting outside along the canal they will give you plastic.
If you are staying inside (no seats) real glasses and plates are in order.
On this day, we stay inside. Take a look in the case and decide what you want, then order up a glass of wine.

Smoked Swordfish  with a drizzle of Balsamic and a large caper, Tuna with
horseradish and a drizzle of dark chocolate, Whipped bacala, Gorgonzola with walnuts,
Cipolle with Anchovy.......on and on.
 Small bites on toothpicks!

Refreshed! Back out to do more exploring in the magic of Venice.



Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi
Fondamente Nani 992
Dorsoduro
Venice

13 GOBBI ( Tuscany)

I have read about this technique where hot pasta
is put into a  large wheel of Pecorino, but I never experienced watching
this magic happen.....or eating the end result of the show.

We learned from Aldo, of Bar Gallo, that a small ristorante in
Montefollonico was the place to go for this pasta, and his recommendations
have always proven to be very good. James and I
along with our friends, Paul and Betty, decided to take a short
road trip over to Tuscany for lunch.

After sharing an antipasti of Carpaccio, it was time for the main attraction...
Tagliatelli being twirled and whirled  and tossed in a wheel of Tuscan Pecorino. It was fun to watch the bowls of cheesy pasta
  prepared before us, and even more fun to eat.
Betty called it, ' Italian Mac & Cheese!' She's right. The aroma was full and comforting.
 You've got to eat while it's still hot !

Nothing else needed after a bowl of this pasta, except  maybe an espresso and a walk.

Definitely worth a trip to 13 Gobbi where the staff are friendly,
the food is good and the town of Montefollonico is small and lovely.
Next time I want to spend time exploring this medieval town in the Val d'Orcia.

SOLOMEO [ Umbria ]

It sounded familiar,'Solomeo', and then I remembered it was the town in Umbria, not far from Panicale, that was the topic of an article I had read some months back. Then, James saw in The International New York Times a page, in graphics, about Italian landmarks that are being restored with the help of businesses.

Brunello Cucinelli, the crowned prince of cashmere had been looking for a place to expand his industry.

The Umbrian hill town of Solomeo dated from the late 12th century, but was falling into ruin.
His vision was to build his factory and world headquarters here. But, his vision was not just focused on business, his intend was to restore the town and bring a new life energy to it. Creating jobs was only the beginning.

Cucinelli is a humanist. Here in Solomeo his mission was not only to bring work to the people of the region and to restore the town, but to create a place of beauty and culture. His plans included a theatre, school, garden and library. Those plans have been realized. The church in the center of town is being restored, and the interior is really quite amazing. Currently there are artisans working on the interior, and were working the day we visited.

Looking down from the hill town to the valley just below is the factory as well as a newly planted vineyard and olive grove....all part of Cucinelli's plan for this place of industry, culture and beauty.


We were all hungry....

Just down the hill from the center of town is a Bar / Bottega where we thought we might get a panini or something for a light lunch.  The woman at the back counter suggested a plate of local cheese and cured meats. A good idea we thought and order that. The four of us relaxed at a small table outside. The weather was perfect. This is what arrived at our table!

A fantastic selection of local Umbrian cheeses and meats as promised!
It was perfectly delicious.
Umbrians take great pride in the food from their region, and why not, when this is what they offer.

All in all, an interesting visit to a place we had never visited before.


Oh, and by the way, there is a Brunello Cucinelli retail store in the center of town. The cashmere products he makes are of the finest quality. The clothes are beautiful and refined.
There is a renaissance in the making here in Solomeo, lead by a creative thinker Brunello Cucinelli who has looked to the creative minds of the past and brought those ideas forward to now  and acted upon it all.
One disappointment.......Debbie and I were hoping to find an 'outlet store' here!
It no longer exists.....darn!

SARDENGA

Paul ( the Wine Guy), " I promised to visit a vineyard in Sardegna....want to come?"
Elizabeth and me (the Wine Drinkers), "Duh...Yah!"

After a car ride to Rome and a short flight. we are on the island of Sardegna. Technically, Sardegna is part of Italy, but for all intents and purposes, you find yourself in a different country.



DORGALI

Our destination is the region around Dorgali, a two hour drive from Cagliari, on the eastern part of the island, This is the home of Cannonau di Sardegna, the ancient grape of remarkable structure.
Sardegna seems to be ringed with huge jagged mountains with white rock streaked with gold and red,  which plunge into the sea. Don't look for any scenic seaside roads here, it is all hairpin turns and switchbacks up and down the coastal mountains.

We descend into a valley that seems uninhabited, save for some vineyards and olive groves. The land is dry, rain being scarce.

Everywhere you look you encounter terrible beauty. It is as if some great ancient god ( they are still here, by the way) tore a large chunk of earth out, leaving this jagged mountain range.

As Paul talked wine business with Manuela, Elizabeth and I , along with Betty tried to absorb this wonderful paradise until it was time for the........

WINE TASTING
Atha Ruja

We were in a small stucco hut (cantina) tasting world class wines (92 point rating). What's not to like? But, as the day grew long we had to retire to the hotel on the other side of the mountains.

CALA GONONE

As we pass through a tunnel we emerge facing the Mare Tirreno and way down below sits the seaside village of Cala Gonone. What can I say, the town has a 'La Dolce Vita' quality to it( aside from the multitude of gelateria's). The beaches are golden red and the sea a stunning aquamarine.

At night we dined on local seafood and roast suckling pig, porcheddu. We promised our host to return in October for the harvest. We returned to Cagliari to catch our flight back to the mainland. But, I could not help myself and had to buy a 'souvenir' from Sardegna.

"The best tuna in the world!"
     - Tonino di Avellino

POGGIO ALLORO.....A Visit To A Family Farm In Tuscany

There it is, San Gimignano in the distance, recognizable by all it's medieval towers. We have been there to see some of the important and beautiful fresco cycles, and  now it is time to visit a family farm we have heard and read about for the past few years.....Poggio Alloro.

Once again we are on the wine trail with Paul and Betty.  After arriving and all the introductions and hugs went around it was only minutes before a chilled bottle of Poggio Alloro wine showed up with four glasses. As family members came to greet their old friends Paul and Betty and meet their new friends James & Elizabeth, more bottles chairs appeared along with additional  glasses and bottles of wine.

This is a true family farm where they raise what they eat. This is Chianina territory, the ghostly white cow...steer raised in Tuscany. Chianina is the beef used for Fiorentina steak that is famous here, generally huge and cut thick, grilled quickly so that it is barely cooked through.

After a glass or two of wine walk down to the barn to see the Chianina to find just how huge these white specters are! 

We pass Amico's vegetable garden. Amigo  it seems is the patriarch here  at the farm and this is just one of the chores he tends too. We later find that the fennel salad at dinner is from his garden. Everything here at the farm, including the wine is 'biological' or organic.

 Sarah, Amico's daughter, who we met at  her wine tasting in Yarmouth , Maine, of all places, invites us to join the family for dinner.

Local cured meats are served first.

Then......Amico shows up with the steaks, Chianina  beef, of course.

We understand that he is a master at grilling these fine cuts of meat.

On this night he grills in the spacious dining room fireplace.

Amico, as nimble as an acrobat, moves in and out of the fireplace with ease as he  tends to the steaks.

Finished with her work for the day Sarah joins us and pours wine  first for Betty and Paul, then for all at the table.

A fennel salad is brought to the table, along with bread.....everything from the farm.

The wine is delicious.

Steaks are ready. Amico salts them. They are ready to be served. Can't wait!!!

The beef is amazing and cooked masterfully. 

"Bravo!" Amico.  

After a perfect night's sleep, James wakes early and finds a place on the terrace overlooking San Gimignano ( San G.! as he calls it) to draw. He spoke of his interest in the rising and terraced landscape between the farm and San Gimignano. He makes a drawing, which will become a painting, so, that probably means a return visit here.

No problem!

Vineyards surround the farm.

It seems that everyone here on the farm has a task. When we arrived Russell was mowing and weeding, another  was in this shed cutting wood. Down at the cantina there were cousins putting 

labels on bottles........so much work goes on here from dawn to dusk, with great food and wine in between the work. Incredible.

The wood that was being cut in the morning it put in a wheelbarrow and wheeled up to the outdoor brick oven. Amico is there to arrange the wood for cooking the evening meals for the farm's guests. In conversation we come to understand that nearly everything that is on the family table is grown or raised on the farm. It is a tale of hard work with rich results, good work, good food, good wine, family and friends. We are all sorry we will not be at the table for this meal!

Sarah had a group coming to Poggio Alloro for a cooking class. The dining room is rearranged and readied for a lesson in pasta making. Sarah is a woman of many talents.

  

A Family Farm in Tuscany , by Sarah Fioroni

A Family Farm in Tuscany is a lovely book that Sarah has written about living and working on her families farm, Poggio Alloro.  She includes some of the traditional Tuscan recipes that are prepared here. James and I bought the book a couple of years ago, but now, being here it all comes to life. After meeting the people in the book and not only seeing the amount of work they do...everyone is in constant motion, I am so delighted to be here. You can bet that James and I will be using some of Sarah's recipes.

Before leaving we stop in the cantina to buy a few bottles of wine to take back to Panicale.

Paul imports this wine, so we will buy more when we return home.

Another final look at San G. before leaving.

Hugs go around. Betty walking arm in arm with Amico back to the car. He gives her a  potted rose, an old rose from Poggio Alloro. She will loving put it in her garden.
This is how great memories are made.

Mille Grazie, Sarah, Amico and all at Poggio Alloro.