A DRIVE IN TUSCANY ( Bagno Vignoni)

In Italy, Autumn can take you by surprise with an
astonishing amount of rain, which means that you don't
take the sunny days for granted, you make the most of them.
Since Tuscany is only a twenty minute drive from Panicale
Elizabeth and I decide to 'fare una gita', take a day
trip to the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany.

The road between Pienza and San Quirico d'Orcia is not just getting from point A to point B, it is a panoramic theatre
at its very best.

Come here in Spring and the Tuscan hills are green and lush
with new growth.

Return in Autumn for the desert like expanse
punctuated with the oasis of green surrounding villas
dotted with Cypress trees.

OUR DESTINATION,
BAGNO VIGNONI

There are places, if you are fortunate, that find you 
on just the right day.
Bagno Vignoni is just such a place. It's a
Terme (mineral water bath) where people have been
coming to to 'take the waters' for thousands of years.
Relatively recent Italian luminaries such as St. Catherine
of Siena, and the Florentine Lorenzo d'Medici ( Lorenzo
the Magnificent) have bathed here.

IT IS JUST MAGIC

The main piazza is dominated by a large rectangular
piscina (pool) where , fortunately, nobody is
allowed in the water.

There is a smaller more private pool with  a small shrine
to Italy's Patron Saint, St. Catherine.
If one wants, there are numerous spas in the hotels that are
around the town.

St. Catherine's pool

But, as always, now it's time for lunch. We walk to our
favorite restaurant here, Osteria Del Leone
for some 'al fresco' dining.
Pasta and grilled meats or fish.

Osteria Del Leone

Autumn in Tuscany

ARTICHOKE DAZE (Part 2)

 ARTICHOKE DAZE

Part 2

THE LITTLE LASAGNA ALLA VIGNAROLA  (sort of)

A Lasagne is 'stuff' layered between sheets of pasta.
Of course, the 'stuff' is important, be it meat, vegetables or a combination.
But the ultimate success of a lasagna depends on the quality of the pasta.
The sheets must be super thin so that they take a supporting and unifying role,
to the filling, but in reality the pasta makes or breaks the lasagna.

THE CAST OF CHARACTERS

Fave and Artichoke

Take equal amounts of cooked fave and artichokes

Cooked guanciale

Fry as much guanciale as possible until crispy, remove
from pan, leave fat. Fry half of a diced onion and a couple of
cloves of chopped garlic in the left over fat.
( or use olive oil if you are a sissy)

Besciamella

Prepare a white sauce (Besciamella). In a sauce pan melt
2 Tablespoons butter and add 2 Tablespoons flour.
These are equal amounts, if you want more sauce add more butter and flour.
Make a Roux and slowly add whole milk until it's all nice and creamy.
Mash the cooked fave and minced parsley and mint and add to the sauce.
Maybe, ( if no one is looking) add some grated Parmesan cheese.
Salt and pepper to taste.

Mint and Parsley minced

Besciamella with Fave and Herbs

THE ASSEMBLY

If you are near Castiglione Del Lago ( Umbria), go to The
Pasta Ladies ( next to the Esso Station) and buy fresh pasta sheets.
(Don't mention my name, they won't know who I am).
If not, buy or make fresh pasta. You can used dried, but it's not
as yummy. Pre-cook ( almost al dente) the pasta, rinse sheets in cold water
and place on a kitchen towel and pat dry.
Now in a small baking pan layer besciamella, artichokes, guanciale and
grated Pecorino cheese. Repeat layers until your 'stuff' is gone.
Italians usually have only 3 layers of pasta.

Top with more besciamella and grated cheese.

Bake in a preheated  375 degree F. oven ( 190 C.) for about 30-40 minutes
until golden or you can't stand to wait any longer. Let it rest
for about 10 minutes ( sorry).

Remember to wash it down with Red Wine.
BUON APPETITO!

ARTICHOKE DAZE....From the Studio To the Kitchen

ARTICHOKE DAZE
Part 1
From The Studio to the Kitchen

Artichokes Hanging
James Aponovich
Oil on canvas,  20" x 16"

In Italy, artichoke season runs from about January through April.
The Italians ( and me ) go crazy for them.

Artichoke
James Aponovich

They are steamed ( Romana), Fried ( Ebracio), sliced raw into salads, and in this
case made into Lasagne. You never see people dunking them into a bowl of butter, that seems to be an American thing, but it sure is good.
But, first things first, they must be painted.....INTO THE STUDIO!

5 Artichokes
James Aponovich
oil on canvas, 18" x 28"

Sort of like 'Ducks in a row'. They all sit very patiently for their portraits to
be painted. Now it's off to the kitchen and
OFF WITH THEIR HEADS!

THE FAVA PHASE

In early April, the first of the Fava Beans arrive in Italian  markets.
They are so tender they can (and are) eaten raw right out of the shell.
One day in Panicarola, I was standing in line waiting to buy some Fava Beans
when a man, who had nothing else to do, very carefully explained to me
the proper Umbrian method of eating Fave.

Pop some Fave Beans out of their shells
Cut a slice of Pecorino Cheese
Put both into your mouth
Chew
Wash everything down with Red Wine.


Great, but I was after something else. If this lady in front of me doesn't
wipe them all out, I'll but some for a culinary project.

A HAPPY COUPLE

After buying what was left, I went to Linda's Bottega and picked up a wedge of
Umbrian Pecorino ( sheep) cheese...Stagionata, great for grating.

VESTAL VIRGIN VIGNAROLA

In Rome, They make a vegetable 'stew' made up of equal amounts
of fave beans, artichokes, peas and lettuce, a little onion and olive oil.
It is all supported ( thankfully)by that great Italian bacon, guanciale
or pig jowl. Add some pecorino and mint...finito!
Hummm.....maybe they are onto something here.

The two Italian bacons : Guanciale on top  and pancetta below.
They may tell you that they are both the same.
Don't believe them.
Guanciale is King!

END OF PART 1

WHAT TO DO WITH LEFTOVER PASTA

Cooked, leftover spaghetti with olive oil, pancetta, cheese with the addition of cultivated asparagus

I always cook too much pasta, so, when James found a Marcella Hazan recipe for Frittata with Pasta I was absolved from my need to add too much pasta to the boiling water.

In Marcella Hazan's recipe for Frittata with Pasta she uses spaghetti because , as she explains, it bonds with the egg mixture. She also says the cooked pasta must be sauced first and recommends pasta tossed with butter and cheese.

When James and I are in Panicale we are often recipients of fresh eggs from  either the nonna of Katia or from Ruth. In the spring Umbrians forage for asparagi selvatico ( wild asparagus) and when we receive a bunch from Katia or Daniela & Aldo, it is like receiving a beautiful edible bouquet. Here in Umbria, eggs and asparagus are a natural combination.

We have experimented with a variety of leftover spaghetti dishes and I agree that the cheese and butter works well. We have also used spaghetti with tomato sauce or spaghetti all'Amatriciana.

All are good, but  our favorite is when we find a bowl of pasta in the refrigerator from the previous night's dinner that is a simple spaghetti with olive oil, pancetta& pecorino cheese ( maybe a few hot pepper flakes). And, also in the refrigerator from the previous day is leftover asparagus! We' ve hit the jackpot knowing that yesterday we bought fresh eggs from the Farmer's Market!

In a bowl beat the eggs (3-4) and salt & pepper, add the cooked spaghetti.  Turn on the broiler. In the meantime, heat a oven proof saute pan, add a tablespoon of butter , melt and add the egg/ pasta mixture when the butter is sizzling.

Cook for a minute or two without moving the pan and at this point add the asparagus (optional).

tip the pan gently allow the egg to cook around the edges. Cook for another few minutes and sneak a peek by lifting an edge to see if the bottom looks cooked.

Put pan under broiler until the top is beginning to brown.

Remove from broiler and slide frittata onto a plate. Cut into wedges and serve.

Frittata can be served hot, cold or at room temperature which make it not only a good lunch or light dinner , but it is terrific picnic food.

WHAT TO DO WITH LEFT OVER PASTA

Cooked, leftover spaghetti with olive oil, pancetta, cheese with the addition of cultivated asparagus

I always cook too much pasta, so, when James found a Marcella Hazan recipe for Frittata with Pasta I was absolved from my need to add too much pasta to the boiling water.

In Marcella Hazan's recipe for Frittata with Pasta she uses spaghetti because , as she explains, it bonds with the egg mixture. She also says the cooked pasta must be sauced first and recommends pasta tossed with butter and cheese.

When James

 and I are in Panicale we are often recipients of fresh eggs from  either the nonna of Katia or from Ruth. In the spring Umbrians forage for asparagi selvatico ( wild asparagus) and when we receive a bunch from Katia or Daniela & Aldo, it is like receiving a beautiful edible bouquet. Here in Umbria, eggs and asparagus are a natural combination.

We have experimented with a variety of leftover spaghetti dishes and I agree that the cheese and butter works well. We have also used spaghetti with tomato sauce or spaghetti all'Amatriciana.

All are good, but  our favorite is when we find a bowl of pasta in the refrigerator from the previous night's dinner that is a simple spaghetti with olive oil, pancetta& pecorino cheese ( maybe a few hot pepper flakes). And, also in the refrigerator from the previous day is leftover asparagus! We' ve hit the jackpot knowing that yesterday we bought fresh eggs from the Farmer's Market!

In a bowl beat the eggs (3-4) and salt & pepper, add the cooked spaghetti.  Turn on the broiler. In the meantime, heat a oven proof saute pan, add a tablespoon of butter , melt and add the egg/ pasta mixture when the butter is sizzling.

Cook for a minute or two without moving the pan and at this point add the asparagus (optional).

tip the pan gently allow the egg to cook around the edges. Cook for another few minutes and sneak a peek by lifting an edge to see if the bottom looks cooked.

Put pan under broiler until the top is beginning to brown.

Remove from broiler and slide frittata onto a plate. Cut into wedges and serve.

Frittata can be served hot, cold or at room temperature which make it not only a good lunch or light dinner , but it is terrific picnic food.

SOLOMEO [ Umbria ]

It sounded familiar,'Solomeo', and then I remembered it was the town in Umbria, not far from Panicale, that was the topic of an article I had read some months back. Then, James saw in The International New York Times a page, in graphics, about Italian landmarks that are being restored with the help of businesses.

Brunello Cucinelli, the crowned prince of cashmere had been looking for a place to expand his industry.

The Umbrian hill town of Solomeo dated from the late 12th century, but was falling into ruin.
His vision was to build his factory and world headquarters here. But, his vision was not just focused on business, his intend was to restore the town and bring a new life energy to it. Creating jobs was only the beginning.

Cucinelli is a humanist. Here in Solomeo his mission was not only to bring work to the people of the region and to restore the town, but to create a place of beauty and culture. His plans included a theatre, school, garden and library. Those plans have been realized. The church in the center of town is being restored, and the interior is really quite amazing. Currently there are artisans working on the interior, and were working the day we visited.

Looking down from the hill town to the valley just below is the factory as well as a newly planted vineyard and olive grove....all part of Cucinelli's plan for this place of industry, culture and beauty.


We were all hungry....

Just down the hill from the center of town is a Bar / Bottega where we thought we might get a panini or something for a light lunch.  The woman at the back counter suggested a plate of local cheese and cured meats. A good idea we thought and order that. The four of us relaxed at a small table outside. The weather was perfect. This is what arrived at our table!

A fantastic selection of local Umbrian cheeses and meats as promised!
It was perfectly delicious.
Umbrians take great pride in the food from their region, and why not, when this is what they offer.

All in all, an interesting visit to a place we had never visited before.


Oh, and by the way, there is a Brunello Cucinelli retail store in the center of town. The cashmere products he makes are of the finest quality. The clothes are beautiful and refined.
There is a renaissance in the making here in Solomeo, lead by a creative thinker Brunello Cucinelli who has looked to the creative minds of the past and brought those ideas forward to now  and acted upon it all.
One disappointment.......Debbie and I were hoping to find an 'outlet store' here!
It no longer exists.....darn!

POGGIO ALLORO.....A Visit To A Family Farm In Tuscany

There it is, San Gimignano in the distance, recognizable by all it's medieval towers. We have been there to see some of the important and beautiful fresco cycles, and  now it is time to visit a family farm we have heard and read about for the past few years.....Poggio Alloro.

Once again we are on the wine trail with Paul and Betty.  After arriving and all the introductions and hugs went around it was only minutes before a chilled bottle of Poggio Alloro wine showed up with four glasses. As family members came to greet their old friends Paul and Betty and meet their new friends James & Elizabeth, more bottles chairs appeared along with additional  glasses and bottles of wine.

This is a true family farm where they raise what they eat. This is Chianina territory, the ghostly white cow...steer raised in Tuscany. Chianina is the beef used for Fiorentina steak that is famous here, generally huge and cut thick, grilled quickly so that it is barely cooked through.

After a glass or two of wine walk down to the barn to see the Chianina to find just how huge these white specters are! 

We pass Amico's vegetable garden. Amigo  it seems is the patriarch here  at the farm and this is just one of the chores he tends too. We later find that the fennel salad at dinner is from his garden. Everything here at the farm, including the wine is 'biological' or organic.

 Sarah, Amico's daughter, who we met at  her wine tasting in Yarmouth , Maine, of all places, invites us to join the family for dinner.

Local cured meats are served first.

Then......Amico shows up with the steaks, Chianina  beef, of course.

We understand that he is a master at grilling these fine cuts of meat.

On this night he grills in the spacious dining room fireplace.

Amico, as nimble as an acrobat, moves in and out of the fireplace with ease as he  tends to the steaks.

Finished with her work for the day Sarah joins us and pours wine  first for Betty and Paul, then for all at the table.

A fennel salad is brought to the table, along with bread.....everything from the farm.

The wine is delicious.

Steaks are ready. Amico salts them. They are ready to be served. Can't wait!!!

The beef is amazing and cooked masterfully. 

"Bravo!" Amico.  

After a perfect night's sleep, James wakes early and finds a place on the terrace overlooking San Gimignano ( San G.! as he calls it) to draw. He spoke of his interest in the rising and terraced landscape between the farm and San Gimignano. He makes a drawing, which will become a painting, so, that probably means a return visit here.

No problem!

Vineyards surround the farm.

It seems that everyone here on the farm has a task. When we arrived Russell was mowing and weeding, another  was in this shed cutting wood. Down at the cantina there were cousins putting 

labels on bottles........so much work goes on here from dawn to dusk, with great food and wine in between the work. Incredible.

The wood that was being cut in the morning it put in a wheelbarrow and wheeled up to the outdoor brick oven. Amico is there to arrange the wood for cooking the evening meals for the farm's guests. In conversation we come to understand that nearly everything that is on the family table is grown or raised on the farm. It is a tale of hard work with rich results, good work, good food, good wine, family and friends. We are all sorry we will not be at the table for this meal!

Sarah had a group coming to Poggio Alloro for a cooking class. The dining room is rearranged and readied for a lesson in pasta making. Sarah is a woman of many talents.

  

A Family Farm in Tuscany , by Sarah Fioroni

A Family Farm in Tuscany is a lovely book that Sarah has written about living and working on her families farm, Poggio Alloro.  She includes some of the traditional Tuscan recipes that are prepared here. James and I bought the book a couple of years ago, but now, being here it all comes to life. After meeting the people in the book and not only seeing the amount of work they do...everyone is in constant motion, I am so delighted to be here. You can bet that James and I will be using some of Sarah's recipes.

Before leaving we stop in the cantina to buy a few bottles of wine to take back to Panicale.

Paul imports this wine, so we will buy more when we return home.

Another final look at San G. before leaving.

Hugs go around. Betty walking arm in arm with Amico back to the car. He gives her a  potted rose, an old rose from Poggio Alloro. She will loving put it in her garden.
This is how great memories are made.

Mille Grazie, Sarah, Amico and all at Poggio Alloro.