Lunch in Venice

James and I like to have a light lunch if we know we will be going to

dinner in the evening. We have found inVenice that cicchetti is a great way

to enjoy a local tradition as well as keeping to our light lunch pledge.

The green awning.... the signal that we have arrived at our destination, Enoteca 

Cantine del Vino 'Gia Schiavi, a well known bacari bar in the Dorsoduro neighborhood.

Cicchetti can be thought of as a Venetian version of tapas. Small bites
on bread or toothpicks which can be anything from  whipped baccala  ( salt cod)
or anchovy and a small
sweet onion, variations of tuna, to gorgonzola with pear and honey.
Here at 'Gia Schiavi', one might find sausage, cheeses or pesto &ricotta, all
that can be partnered with some crazy ingredient to make it an
extraordinary small bite!

There are many bacari bars throughout the neighborhoods.
All have different moods and atmospheres. At times we find we walk in to a bacari and are
the oldest people in there.....then, we slowly back out and find another
more to our liking. Most, however, cater to all and the cicchetti is
distinctly their own.

Once you have selected  the cicchetti, order a glass of wine.
Here at 'Gia Schiavi', being that it is an enoteca, there
are many wines to choose from. Since we were in the Veneto we  each had a
chilled Soave. Perfect for our selections of cicchetti.

Our plate included gambieri and soar ( shrimp and a special Venetian sauce), salmon with mascarpone, tuna
with cacao, anchovy and onion.....

After a morning at the Accademia then a walk around Dorsoduro, and lunch, it
was time for a short rest....but, there is always more to see in this
amazing city of stone and brick that seemingly floats on water.

VENICE....Small Bites

The palazzos of Venice float on the lagoon and canals, or so it seems.
A city that seems impossible. It is easy to find that you have walked miles, crossing countless bridges over charming canals, that at times are clogged with gondolas. Gondoliers duck under these bridges and somehow negotiate through the other boats.
Narrow alleys lead to open piazza's where people fill cafe's and benches while children kick soccer balls or chase the pigeons.
After all the walking it is good to duck into a bar for  a glass of wine and a bit to eat.

Our favorite place for Cichetti is in Dorsoduro, canal side.
It is called Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi.
A perfect stop for a late afternoon snack.

 If you plan on sitting outside along the canal they will give you plastic.
If you are staying inside (no seats) real glasses and plates are in order.
On this day, we stay inside. Take a look in the case and decide what you want, then order up a glass of wine.

Smoked Swordfish  with a drizzle of Balsamic and a large caper, Tuna with
horseradish and a drizzle of dark chocolate, Whipped bacala, Gorgonzola with walnuts,
Cipolle with Anchovy.......on and on.
 Small bites on toothpicks!

Refreshed! Back out to do more exploring in the magic of Venice.



Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi
Fondamente Nani 992
Dorsoduro
Venice

VENICE :An evening ride on Vaporetto 5.2

VENICE


"It is a city of mirrors, the city of mirages, at once solid
and liquid, at once air and stone."
                                                         - Erica Jong

At first glance, some twenty four years ago, I was enchanted
by this city that seems to float on water.
Descending those steps from the train station down to the Grand Canal I was again mesmerized.
Venice grabbed me and I submitted to it, as did James.

James found Venice to be in constant movement,  as he said, "it is continually swirling."
 The rhyme set in motion by the movement of water, clouds, people and boats.

There are only two ways to view Venice, by boat and by foot.
An evening ride on Vaporetto 5.2 from Zattere to St. Marks
allowed us some memorable views of Venice from the water.

Keep in mind, taking photos from a Vaporetto is not all that easy considering you are on a moving boat and that at least during the day these boats are packed with people. In the evening, after
the day tourists have left the city things are quieter.


(Note: in our experience the Vaporetto # 1 can be like 
mosh pit motoring during the day!)

"There is something so different in Venice from any other place in  the world, that
you leave at once all accustomed habits and everyday sights to enter
an enchanted garden."
                                                           - Mary Shelley

James and I, along with friends Tom and Shannon, disembarked at our destination
St. Marks - San Zaccaria Vaporetto stop. We were meeting up with a small
group for an after hours tour of the Basilica of St. Mark.



It was only 8:30 but the the square was quiet, the crowds had disappeared. The sun was setting, the water shimmered. It was Venice at its finest.

I recommend a private tour of the Basilica of St. Mark. Truly, it is the the only way to visit this slowly sinking wonder and see close up all it's splendor.
 Venice was once a powerhouse of a city, politically, artistically, and financially. It was the link to the East for merchants.
Here, all the riches can be seen. The weight and power of this building can be felt as
you walk through the doors.
The floors, as the water in the canal, undulate beneath your feet. Look up and all is gold.
Mosaics of gold layered in glass cover the domes and ceilings.  It is almost blinding in brilliance.
The craftsmanship and labor stunning not the mention the wealth it
took to complete this majestic building.
Lots of deep pockets!

Venice at times whispers and yet often roars.
Listen and let it wrap itself around you.


When visiting Venice do plan an evening / sunset Vaporetto ride,
to exeprience a 'different' Venice and for the romance.
You might feel as you are playing a role in a foreign film!